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How to 3D Print an Aeroplane - Day 9 - Sectioning the fuselage

In the last post of this week I have sectioned the fuselage. You can follow along with the screen cast to see how I have gone about it and I'll just explain some of my thinking here.


First I have halved the fuselage. This is to make it easier to work with the wing join initially. You'll notice that when I mirrored it again it became clear that either the loft wasn't symmetrical initially of the original sketches were not centred. To fix this I simply cut all the other fuselage pieces in half and mirrored them again.


Whilst shelling the fuselage pieces I have gone with ~ 2mm wall thickness. You need to have spent some time thinking about what settings you plan to print your model with, as these trace back to these earlier design decisions. if you want to print your model with 1mm wall thickness there is no point designing it with wall 0.5mm thick. From my own personal experience I like to print single line walls with a thickness of 0.4mm. This is great for keeping the model light. With 2mm component walls this results in 2 walls 0.4mm thick and 1.2mm infill between them which adds to structural integrity. More on slicer settings later but it worth having thought about it early on.


I have opted to go super simple to attach the wing and decided to use elastic bands on BBQ skewers. In order to spread the load away from just a small contact point in the 2mm model walls I have built in braces across the model. It also came in handy dealing with a sneaky bridge.




In the screencast you'll see how we dealt with this. If the part is to be printed with the face nearest us on the print bead its unlikely that the curve section would have printed without a support. I boxed it in in order to provide the support for the bbq skewer and killed 2 birds with one stone.



 
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